Thursday, June 5, 2008

You Like Everest Stories? Then Go See It

I realized before I even started doing this weblog, that I am really not all that interesting.  In order to keep my loyal readership awake, I have decided I need to occasionally do some interviews with other people who asking "What's Next?"  Some of these stories will be crazy adventures, some will be comparatively simple, but they will share a common thread… they set a goal, and then they made it happen. 

I hope you enjoy the series.  If you have any ideas of people I should talk to, please drop me an email.

The Everest Base Camp Trek
The first in this series of interviews is with my co-worker and good friend Jennifer Dewitt. Jen is 25 and like me lives in Chicago. As you will read, she increasingly became interested in Mt Everest over the last couple of years and after seeing friend of WND Charlie Wittmack talk about his Everest experience in Chicago, decided she wanted a closer look. Five months later, she was on a plane for Nepal, set off for a three week Everest Base Camp trek. She returned to Chicago last, and was graciously willing to share some of her experiences with WND. Enjoy!

WND: Why did you want to do this trip?
JD: Over the last two years I've gotten really interested in the allure of Everest. What first started out as curiosity around some of the disasters on the mountain (mainly 1996) I began reading books, articles, and watching programs about climbers conquering the mountain and what a mental and physical challenge it is... it was unlike most anything I'd heard about. So when I found out that there were guided treks to base camp I thought it would be a perfect way to see what it is all about and see for myself if I could make it. I was also looking forward to learning more about the culture of the sherpa people and the Hindu and Buddhist religions in that part of the world.

WND: What technical skills did you need to acquire before making the trip? How did you prepare physically for the trek?
JD: Our trek wasn't very technical so mostly I just tried to get in shape so I could physically do the hiking and carry our pack.

In terms of preparing physically I walked in my hiking boots at the gym on a treadmill at an incline. I looked pretty weird to the other gym goers but such is life. I probably didn't prepare as much for the trip physically as I should've but in the end I think your body's physiology and how it interacts with the altitude trumps whatever kind of physical shape you are in. Some of the most physically fit people in our group really had a rough time with the altitude towards base camp so you never know.

WND: What did you learn most about Everest, Nepal and yourself from this trip?
JD: Nepal was an amazing country with a very eclectic population. Many of the Nepalese people look either more Chinese or Indian and all ranges in between since it is such a religious and cultural melting pot. The Nepalese people in Kathmandu and the mountains were all extremely kind and overly helpful to all visitors. Their Buddhist and Hindu cultures are very peaceful and although they lead rather simple lives many of the Nepalese in the mountains regularly live to be over 90 years old!!

Everest amazes me even more now that I've been there. I could imagine the types of people that would take on this challenge before but now after actually meeting many of them it really is almost a way of life for many climbers. There are some that only have the goal of climbing the tallest mountain in the world to say they've done it but the majority of people we met were more seasoned climbers who have climbed extensively throughout the Himalayas, Pakistan, and South America. I think one of the biggest misconceptions is that now that things are so commercialized that anyone with enough money could climb Everest but I really think this couldn't be farther from the truth. It is true that if you pay enough you could get a guide to organize the trip and take you but if you don't have the mental, physical, and physiological toughness to combat the harsh elements, altitude, and physical demands you certainly won't make it very far. Even though Everest is the highest in the world it is certainly not the prettiest or most technical in the Himalayas....mountains like Ama Dablam and Lhotse are beautifully picturesque and much more technically demanding.

As for what I've learned about myself I think I really tested my mental toughness more than I thought I would. Especially at the beginning after getting really sick from the food but forcing myself to keep climbing to not fall behind was definitely a challenge. Additionally with the altitude affecting our sleep (2-3 hours a night) and appetite (nearly non-existent) it was hard to keep yourself energized but I think mental toughness definitely carried us all to our goal. I also learned a ton about the world in general with a lot of the conversations we had as a group and with our guide and sherpas. Between politics, religion, and cultural discussions it was truly a wonderful learning experience.

WND: What about the trip was different than you expected it to be?
JD: I really kept an open mind going into the trip and had certain ideas of the physical challenge of hiking and what the altitude might be like but I really wanted to go into it blind for fear that I would psych myself out. I definitely did not expect all the altitude challenges and especially getting so out of breath after walking just a few feet. I think if I had known all of this going in I wouldn't have had such an optimistic attitude but once you get there you find yourself just putting one foot in front of the other because that is all you can physically do or think about.

WND: How long did it take, how many people did you travel with and what hurdles did you have to overcome (I read one of your emails that said you and everyone got sick)?
JD: The whole trip itself was 19 days of which 10 days were spent hiking up to basecamp and 6 on the way down, the other 3 days were spent arriving/departing in Kathmandu and sightseeing in the city. There were 9 of us on the trek plus 1 guide, 5 porters (to carry our heavy bags, we carried our day packs), and 3 sherpas who served as assistant guides.

The biggest hurdle was getting really sick from the food on day 2 of the trip. It's especially hard for Americans sometimes because all our food is so processed that in Nepal you get kind of a shock to your system. I had to stay back one night by myself (with an assistant sherpa) in a village 4 hours below the rest of the group because I was too weak to finish the day's hike and that was pretty lonely and disheartening. But I had to keep hiking through the sickness the next day even though I couldn't keep down food or even water...but it was worth it once I started being able to eat again and get my strength up and met up with the rest of the group after staying back another extra day to acclimatize in the Namche Bazaar village.

WND: What did if feel like to reach Base Camp and what did you see?
JD: Base camp is really a huge sprawl of tons of tents, it's almost like a mini-city perched just along the Khumbu Icefall. Most camps would have fairly flat ground but since this is on a glacier the terrain is very rocky and uneven. We actually saw a little German bakery that was set up inside a tent selling delicious cinnamon buns and cookies so there are definitely a few comforts there for the climbers who spend months at base camp. It's a very colorful place with so many different tents set against the black and white backdrop of the mountains and it was actually really net because it started snowing right when we got there which seemed very fitting. I just couldn't believe that our trek was so long and hard just to get to the beginning of where these climbers start their summit of Everest.... incredible.

WND: Do you have any other similar climbing aspirations?
JD: For the foreseeable future I'm probably going to stick to doing some more hiking/climbing in the western U.S. and hopefully someday I'd love to do Kilimanjaro as well.

WND: What will you remember most about this trip?
JD: I think the most memorable part for me would be: 1. Reaching base camp and finally seeing with my own eyes Mt. Everest and all the determination of all the climbers risking their life for the challenge. You can read all the books that you want but nothing compares to actually standing on the Khumbu glacier and seeing climbers trek through the Khumbu Icefall right in front of your eyes... it's truly awe-inspiring. -and- 2. Just being in such a beautiful part of the world and seeing how the Nepalese culture in the mountains is so simple but fulfilling. They are all such hard workers and kind people and genuinely happy. It makes me remember to stop and be grateful for all the opportunities I have and more importantly put things in perspective in my own life.

WND: What was your favorite part of the trip?
JD: I loved getting to know the sherpas and porters in our group and understanding what their lives were like and their culture. Many of them are from large families of farmers and don't even leave the mountains. It's so interesting to see how others who are my exact same age, 25, grow up and see what their aspirations are.

WND: If you were writing an article yourself, what would you say to the reader? 
JD: In doing this trip I've talked to so many people that have thought about doing the trek to base camp but never gotten around to it. I would say if you have the means to do it you can always find the time to set aside and you should just do it. It was definitely a once in a lifetime trip and just makes me not want to waste a single day in my own life.

WND: OK, so here it is… What's next?
JD: What's next? Well I would like to do some traveling in South America and I'm really hoping to do Kilimanjaro at some point as well. I think this is just the start of my travel bug and I see many more exciting trips in my future...

Here is Jen's Everest Base Camp group at Everest Base Camp.
Jen is third from the left in the blue jacket.

Thank you Jen.  Welcome home.

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